kernowfornia dreaming

07/02/12 | Blatant plug...

2012-02-07T15:53:00.000Z

I like being warm, especially when surfing, so I'm very lucky to work for a company that makes clothes to keep surfers toasty. We're having a little workshop clearance sale this Saturday at the Tubestation in Polzeath - looks like there's going to be a fun wave, the Tubestation has an awesome cafe (with skateramp!), and we've got some bargains to keep you going through the winter, so come along!

01/02/12 | Being warm is cool

2012-02-01T20:06:00.001Z

A couple of years ago the guys over at korduroy.tv made this excellent little video of tips on staying warm in cold surf. I was stoked they featured my favorite winter surf tip - take a gallon of hot water with you to wrap your suit & towel in, then use as a hot shower afterwards. Toasty!

10/01/12 | New year, new...something

2012-01-11T00:05:00.000Z

First surf of the year - small wedgy south coast fun round the corner

Looking back, 2011 was the most changeable, exciting, terrifying year since 2005 when I decided to quit my job and move to Cornwall. I turned 30, we went to Hawaii, I left my job of six years to join the team at Finisterre, we finally bought a van, and we made a huge commitment and got a dog. I've had so much buzzing around my head what with starting a new job (with puppy in tow) that there hasn't been room for much else, so this blog and my photos have been sadly neglected.

Finally things are settling down. There's something I love about the start of a new year, a curious sort of optimism. Nothing's changed, but it feels like an opportunity to appraise things and leave the previous year behind. I always say I don't believe in new year's resolutions (or rather making promises I can't keep) and yet usually make some (here are 2010 & 2011's) so here are my aspirations for 2012:

    Surf more
    Worry less
    Do something with the photos I take
    Be better at keeping in touch with people
    Save up for another trip (California?)

31/08/11 | Events this weekend

2011-08-31T09:28:00.001+01:00

There are not one, but two great events to go to in Cornwall this weekend. The Hip Wiggler Invitational has been set up by James Parry to showcase the more traditional side of longboarding.Held at Gwithian with some of the UK's most skillful longboarders competing it's definitely going to be one to go along and watch. Fingers crossed for some nice clean surf.

On Sunday the World Bellyboard Championships return to Chapel Porth. Wooden boards only and strictly no wetsuits this is not for the faint hearted! Seeing ladies in their 80s out enjoying the surf is inspirational; if you fancy becoming a World Champion yourself entries will be open until Friday.

30/08/11 | Trouble

2011-08-30T12:46:00.001+01:00

Our lives have been completely taken over by this bundle of trouble, a border collie x greyhound puppy we've called Tyler - surfing opportunities have been severely limited while we've been training him but he loves the beach, and I love going out exploring with him whatever the weather.

08/08/11 | Yoga Rocks!

2011-08-08T13:08:00.001+01:00

Fancy getting bendy on the beach with a BBQ afterwards all in the name of charity? My lovely colleagues at Finisterre have helped to put together Yoga Rocks - an evening of yoga events at Lusty Glaze in Newquay in aid of several local charities. It's going to be a fun evening (laughter yoga anyone?!) so come along!

Press release:
We are putting on a charity Yoga event on Monday evening, 15th August, with the help of several very flexible friends at lusty Glaze, Newquay.We hope that the Lusty gig will be the first of our community guerilla yoga tour of Cornwall, celebrating the diversity of yoga and getting people together of all backgrounds, ages and abilities to enjoy yoga as the sun sets, with a fresh and tasty BBQ, live music set (artist to be announced) and a charity auction afterwards.

The Scarlet Hotel will also be giving Ayurvedic massages and there will be meditation and chanting workshops, as well as Yoga for surfers, children and baby yoga and laughter yoga! The event will run from 6pm til 10pm and we have marquees if the weather decides to be unfriendly. Tickets are £10 including unlimited Yoga workshops and food (meat and veggie BBQ available) All ages and abilities welcome.

The event is to raise money and awareness for 2 charities close to our hearts - The Children's Hospice South West and The Global Natural Children's Health Trust - GNCHT, an awe-inspiring charity based in Truro, for children and their parents affected by HIV and AIDS in South Africa. We have already had 100 people confirmed to come along, as well 10 yoga teachers and some top auction prizes from local businesses, including a flight over the Duchy Channel, Spezia organics, Surfgirl subscriptions, Finisterre clobber and Champagne from Bin 2 Padstow.

For more information contact Finisterre on 01872554481 and follow Yoga Rocks on Facebook and Twitter.

13/07/11 | World Bellyboard Championships 2011

2011-07-13T23:50:00.001+01:00

Entries are now open for the WBBC 2011 - see the website for more info / to enter online. Fingers crossed for sun & surf.

30/06/11 | OK so I was wrong...

2011-06-30T13:28:00.000+01:00

...Sunday's forecast DELIVERED.

22/06/11 | Forecast

2011-06-22T14:10:00.000+01:00

I'm trying not to get too excited about this. The pessimistic part of me says the trouble with forecasts is that they rarely seem to deliver - the wind doesn't actually swing round etc etc - but this summer has been pretty crappy so far (since April anyway), so seeing sunshine, a good swell AND offshore winds forecast for this Sunday is making me want to jump up and down like an overexcited child. Please PLEASE let it happen.

17/06/11 | Probably won't need this is Cornwall:

2011-06-17T20:34:00.000+01:00

When we were in Hawaii I realised (after a few wipeouts) just how unsuitable most bikinis are for surfing in. These rad bikinis from Calavera have really caught my eye, they look like they're not going to go anywhere in the water, and despite the fact they're made in California their international shipping is pretty cheap. If only it were warm enough here to to worry about losing your bikini...

09/06/11 | Beach love

2011-06-09T23:11:00.000+01:00

I went and helped out at a beach clean at Godrevy tonight. Items found included:

bits of fishing nets (more of this than anything else)
plastic bottles, tubs & bottle tops
1 x bottle of rioja (empty, no note inside)
cigarette butts
crisps / sweet packets
cans of beer (opened)
disposable barbeques
foam panels
4 x flip flops (not matching)
1 x pair of crocs (owner obviously saw sense)
massive plastic barrel
shotgun cartridge cases
surfboard tailpad (half of)
1 x torch

Human beings suck sometimes.

The incredible thing at Godrevy is that more people seem to leave dog poo lying around than litter (see this post) despite the fact there are no rubbish bins at all at the beach but there is a dog poo bin. I was talking to Nick from the National Trust about it afterwards and they're going to install new dog bins at the beach soon and try to encourage more people to use them which is great news.

There'll be another beach clean in a month's time, follow @NTGod2Aggie to stay in the loop.

08/06/11 | Upcoming Events

2011-06-08T22:16:00.000+01:00

Alasdair Lindsay of the excellent vintage surfboard collector has organised a meet & board swap at Lusty Glaze on the 26th, so if drooling over resin-tinted single fins or marvelling over neon 80s sprays is your thing I'll see you there!

There's also a beach clean up at Godrevy tomorrow (9th June) organised by the National Trust. No details online but it's from 5 - 7PM, bin bags provided. Godrevy's my local beach - to work anyway - so it's great that they've organised a clean up for the evening so that people who work during the day can attend.

02/06/11 | The Tipping Point

2011-06-02T10:53:00.000+01:00

Despite the continuing mediocre surf and weather, the end of May still felt like we had reached the tipping point of the season. The tourists are here to stay now until the autumn, and we've suddenly entered that wonderful time of year when the winter rubber can finally come off and the water starts to feel warm.

16/05/11 | Onshore Chocolate

2011-05-16T21:08:00.004+01:00

After April's amazing run of sunshine and great surf, May has been a bit of a disappointment - back to changeable weather and lots of onshores. Oh well, it was nice while it lasted. So in lieu of surfing I've finally cracked open a pack of Polaroid Chocolate film and it's like lith printing without all of the darkroom stress; a perfect Polaroid swansong.

03/05/11 | Thank goodness...

2011-05-03T14:17:00.008+01:00

...for modern wetsuits.

While I'm thinking of wetsuits I thought I'd share my dad's old longjohn & jacket set from Tiki, it's going off to the Museum of British Surfing to join their collection of vintage suits later this week.

It's too bad it doesn't fit me because I love the styling. It's stiff as hell though and must have flushed like crazy, it really makes me appreciate how far wetsuit construction has come!

30/04/11 | Wetsuit dilemmas

2011-04-30T10:41:00.008+01:00

Now that the water is finally warming up it's time to start thinking about summer rubber. Last year I went straight from my 5/4 into a Nineplus short-leg long-arm suit. I love it, and it's super warm, but I could really do with something inbetween for this time of year, it's not quite warm enough to go out with bare legs yet!

There are some really nice unusual wetsuits out there, if you live in the US or Australia, but I've been struggling to find something I like in the UK. I don't think it's unreasonable to want a wetsuit that not only performs, but looks really good too, and I find most mainstream wetsuits a bit boring.

I'm off to see Malcom at Snugg Wetsuits later to look at making a custom suit for me. I still can't fully decide exactly what I want, I definitely want a front zip and yamamoto panels like my nineplus suit, but I'd like some colour in there too, possibly a chevron around the waist in turquoise. As this is a spring / autumn suit it needs to be a full suit, but I'm also pondering on a longjohn for the summer.

Here're some of the suits I've been looking at for inspiration:

Credits, from left to right starting top left: Kassia Meador for Roxy (from last year's collection, love the chevrons and bold colour), Tallow (from last year's collection), Nineplus (this is from a few years ago, the current model has less yamamoto sadly), Roxy, Muther of All Things (surely the hottest wetsuit ever invented, but it must flush like crazy!), Snugg, Roxy Japan (like the front zip & 70s stripes), Candy Wetsuits (so so cool, but so expensive), Tallow.

I also love this neoprene jacket from student Hannah Curson, I've always wondered about putting pockets on a wetsuit, I'd love to have a hoody-style front pocket to warm my hands in on chilly mornings!

Or maybe I'll just go for all black.

19/04/11 | Polzeath pancakes & pintails

2011-04-19T19:56:00.006+01:00

Now that winter is officially over Mr Surfy is back to make us amazing post-surf pancakes & cups of tea, another reason for us to drive up to Polzeath. As the surf was looking pretty good for Saturday I swapped my trusty traditional log Big Red for my more progressive board...I'd forgotten how much fun it is, I'm definitely going to be riding it a bit more.

(My awesome Captain Fin fin is from Finshack, who coincidentally is on the left in the top photo)

18/04/11 | Hello Summer (almost)

2011-04-18T13:53:00.001+01:00

Sunshine & waves. What a glorious weekend.

15/04/11 | Haleiwa

2011-04-15T14:25:00.003+01:00

Last night I dreamt we had just landed back in Hawaii.

09/04/11 | See you next year...

2011-04-09T17:21:00.002+01:00

Bye bye mitts. Boots & winter wetsuit your days are numbered.

27/03/11 | Hello spring

2011-03-27T16:52:00.001+01:00

Spring is finally, officially, here! Isn't it strange how suddenly the weather has gone from end of winter to summer's on the way? There are daffodils everywhere, it's warm out in the sun and everyone's getting their flip flops out of hibernation. We'll be ditching the winter rubber in no time.

18/03/11 | Scanning fatigue

2011-03-18T14:43:00.001Z

My slides from Hawaii arrived last week but haven't had time to get scanning properly yet, so here's one I took with Chris's camera of him surfing at Makaha. Sigh.

25/02/11 | Aloha 'Oe

2011-02-25T17:34:00.004Z

So. Hawaii. What an amazing trip, I am totally in love with the place. I don't really think I can put it into words how awesome our trip was, so I'll post more as my photos arrive back from the lab and I get scanning; but I suppose I should try and say something about the surf...

We knew that going to Hawaii in the winter carried the risk of it being massive on the North Shore and flat on the south with nothing in between, but luckily there was a small south swell while we were in Waikiki.
Waikiki has a bit of a poor reputation for being super-touristy and too built up, but I felt right at home; it was like a beautiful tropical Newquay but without the stag dos! Everyone in the water was really laid back and friendly, locals were calling us onto waves and more than happy to share. I was truly in heaven surfing Pops in a bikini at 7am. It sounds cheesy, but I really did get a thrill just from walking past the Duke statue with my board under my arm, and I can't wait to go back there. We were really fortunate to be recommended Koa Boardsports who hired us surftec In the Pinks and Model Ts (which we both loved); they also provided free 24-hour access board storage and would hold onto your stuff for you during the day. We'll definitely be hiring from them again.

On the North Shore it was a totally different story; most of the shops wouldn't rent out boards as it was too big. We spent several hours just stood watching at Pipeline and Waimea, feeling totally humbled. There was a fair number of girls in the water on a huge day at Waimea too. I didn't feel confident (or do I mean aggressive?) enough to surf on the North or Leeward Shore, but Chris discovered that the locals aren't quite so welcoming to haoles at Makaha and Haleiwa, while I stayed on the beach and took photos.

The great thing about Hawaii is that there is so much more to do than just surfing; we packed in more than we thought was possible in our two week trip. On one day you can swim in a geothermal heated tide pool with tropical fish nibbling you, and climb to the top of a snow-covered mountain. It really is the most incredible place. Before we left Jamie Watson of the excellent PineappleLuv said in this post 'There is not one day that goes by that I don't think of the Hawaiian islands'. I think I can now safely say the same.

20/02/11 | Home

2011-02-20T15:54:00.003Z

Before I start uploading photos of our trip to Hawaii and going on about how amazing it was, I'd like to take a moment to appreciate being home.

The winter here is cold. And dark. Sometimes it feels like it's never going to end. But then there are those lovely clear frosty mornings, when everyone else is tucked up in the warm and you get a beautiful glassy surf almost to yourself. They make it all worth it.

11/01/11 | Lundy - Fastnet - Irish Sea

2011-01-11T13:47:00.005Z

I know I'm supposed to be saving for our impending trip, but I'm seriously tempted by this lovely hand-screened poster from James Brown...

01/01/11 | Hello 2011

2011-01-01T23:48:00.003Z

I've got a good feeling about 2011 - and it got off to a promising start with a nice clean swell that had both coasts working, hooray.

2011 resolutions:

Stop procrastinating
Surf more / progress
Get fitter - do more yoga / find something else to do
Take better photographs
Get to know more people in the water
Spend less!
Buy van

(2010's resolutions - well I am eating breakfast every day now)

Oh and did I mention - we're off to Hawaii in one month!

20/12/10 | PICK IT UP

2010-12-20T22:09:00.002Z

So much dogshit at Godrevy. It really pisses me off because it must be local people who enjoy walking at the beach who are leaving it. For god's sake people PICK IT UP. My dog had diarrhea (from the excitement of being at the beach) and I still managed to bag it and put it in the bin. As for the people who put it in a plastic bag THEN leave it at the beach...

19/12/10 | Christmas Cracker

2010-12-19T22:09:00.006Z

We're supposed to be driving upcountry for the week to visit family on boxing day, would it be bad to cancel?

03/12/10 | SNOvember

2010-12-03T23:00:00.005Z

October

November is always a month of transition, the month that draws a definite line under summer and ushers in the proper winter, but what a strange November we've had.

We started the month off the back of a fantastic run of October surf that included a few epic days (see above). Then it just fizzled out. We've had precious few good swells, and the best ones have been short-lived, appearing on busy work days and fading away before the weekend. I can't remember such an inconsistent spell this late in the autumn, can you?

The mornings were just starting to get chilly enough to warrant considering boots, when out of nowhere the snow arrived. Crazy, we've jumped straight into deepest winter. I love it! It's so easy as a surfer to dream of life somewhere hot with good waves, but I do love a good hard winter - now we just need some swell to top it off.

November!

21/11/10 | The Cruel Mistress

2010-11-21T14:05:00.005Z

Pumping all week while I've been ill / working, nearly flat at the weekend. Sigh. Nearly time to get the boots out too.

11/11/10 | Economies of Surf

2010-11-11T21:03:00.006Z

Ever feel like everything is conspiring against you having a surf?
I had a 10 o'clock meeting in Wadebridge yesterday, so it seemed rude not to try for a sneaky surf beforehand. I managed to get stuck behind every slow moving vehicle in Cornwall on the way there and when I finally made it to the beach (nearly 45 minutes later than planned) the tide was too high anyway. Not wanting to be defeated I wangled an extended lunchbreak and went back for another look after the meeting - by then I felt I had to get in whatever the conditions seeing as winter mid-week surfs are so precious.

Now I don't think you can put a price on a good surf, but sometimes you just have to wonder if it was really all worth it...

Minutes spent looking at forecast & loading car etc on Tuesday night: 30
Time alarm clock went off: 6.20 AM
Temperature outside: 2.5 degrees, had to scrape ice off windscreen
Miles driven: 94, diesel cost £11.34 (boss usually gives me a lift)
Time spent in car: 2 1/2 hours
Pre-surf photo: 50p
Post-surf chocolate: 70p
Number of extra hours worked to make up for lunch: 1 1/2 hours

Time actually spent in weak crumbly lumpy surf: 50 minutes.

01/11/10 | If only...

2010-11-01T23:58:00.003Z

If only every morning could look like this.

31/10/10 | Hiatus

2010-10-31T11:19:00.006Z

I never thought it would be over six months before I'd post on this blog again, I really don't know where the time has gone. Back in November last year the company I worked for went into administration; it was business as usual until Easter when chunks of the company suddenly started being sold off and the pressure of the situation started to get to me. Gradually everyone I had worked with day-to-day left, and the company I loved working for was taken to pieces bit by bit, leaving me feeling demoralised and completely stripped of any motivation. It's turned me into a bit of an online hermit; the summer has come and gone in a flash and I don't feel like I've been able to fully enjoy it as I've had all this uncertainty hanging over me.

Two weeks ago the administration finally came to an end (after eleven months) and last week I started my new job working with my old bosses in Camborne. Already I feel refreshed. It's great to be working in an office with other people that I enjoy working with, and being able to look to the future. So this seemed like a good time to resurrect my blog.

I'm going to try now to keep it updated and work through the huge backlog of photos I've got to scan. I'm looking forward to catching up on everyone else's blogs and finding out how summer has been, sorry if you've left comments / messages that I haven't replied to. There have been loads of things I've wanted to write about, surfing with basking sharks in May, all the great surf we've had, my fabulous new summer suit from nineplus, the sad state of women's surfing as events get cancelled. I'll try and catch up. Oh and in a moment of severe depression I booked flights to Hawaii for February. Yeew!

In the mean time I've started using twitter to help me back into things and post day-to-day stuff that isn't worthy of a whole blog post - so if you're on twitter come say hello @_kernowfornia_

22/04/10 | The Stoke knows no boundaries

2010-04-22T16:53:00.010+01:00

"Surfing is beautiful, life is difficult in Gaza but surfing makes me feel free."

From BBC News - Gazan surfers brave the sewage.

11/04/10 | Summer has arrived...

2010-04-11T23:49:00.005+01:00

...well nearly anyway.

30/03/10 | We made it

2010-03-30T12:51:00.005+01:00

British Summer Time is here!

OK, it's still raining and cold outside, but IT'S LIGHT after work and my winter wetsuit's days are numbered...summer rubber here we come YEEW!

23/03/10 | I'm Possible

2010-03-23T12:40:00.006Z

Photo © Nancy L. Stockdale

They said it wasn't possible, but it is.

I don't really know what I was expecting from the Impossible Project's first film. I'll be honest, when they announced that they would be starting with monochrome I wasn't that excited. I can develop and print my own black and white film, and it's the colour of Polaroid film that I really love. But when the first sample photographs were unveiled yesterday I instantly (no pun intended) fell in love. These are no crisp, contrasty black and white images. They are soft, dreamy, almost like lith prints - in short they are magic, just like a Polaroid should be and I can't wait to see my first print developing before my eyes.

For your perusal...

2010-03-15T17:30:00.006Z

It's gone flat again, boo. At least it's lovely and sunny though, I think today's going to be the warmest day of the year so far. Anyway, seeing as there's no waves to be had, here are a few things to read / watch:

First up, an apology to Mark Leary: the Jan / Feb issue of Surfer's Path featured some of Mark's photographs from his forthcoming book Salt, including this one of Chris and I, and I haven't mentioned it! The next issue is already out but if you can get hold of a copy of the previous issue check it out, or keep an eye on Mark's salt blog for updates on the book launch.

Chris recently had his interview with Sam Bleakley featured in Drift, it's great to hear from someone who's travelled as extensively as Sam but still loves to come home to the Cornish surf, and I think Chris's photos really show off what we've got.

From digital news to paper: KooK is an independently-published surfing newspaper from Dan Crockett, featuring art & writing from so many talented people I can't list them all, and when I say newspaper I mean NEWS and PAPER. It's real printed all killer no filler stuff, and what's more it's only £4 including postage (more outside the UK). Buy your very own copy here.

A few weeks ago we went to see the premiere of 'Protect Our Waves', a new film for Surfers Against Sewage. You can get it free with this month's Surfer's Path, or by writing to SAS. As well as highlighting some of the issues surfers continue to face, it's a great little surf film in its own right with something for everyone, and some nice animation too. You can see a taster of the animation here.

Enjoy!

Light at the end of the tunnel

2010-03-08T08:30:00.002Z

It's been a busy month. What with college and the continuing saga of impending redundancy I haven't been surfing nearly as much as I'd like. But that's all going to change, because the days are getting noticeably lighter - we've definitely turned the corner into spring and British Summer Time isn't far away. I can now drive home in daylight (as long as I leave on time) and there's more than enough light for a decent pre-work dawny. There's sunshine and a nice little swell forecasted so fingers crossed for some salty days in the office this week.

(Raw data for the graph generated here.)

Different horizons

2010-02-21T22:00:00.002Z

Saturday / Porthleven

2010-02-09T12:27:00.004Z

(photo by Chris)

Winter yet again reminding us that warm water is overrated...

Get the log ready!*

2010-02-05T12:42:00.004Z

I've been ignoring the surf forecast recently and only looking when I actually go to the beach, that way I don't get disappointed when the swell promised on the 8 day forecast doesn't turn up (or more likely is accompanied by howling onshores). So I haven't looked at all this week, but I thought I'd have a quick see if there's anything for tomorrow and it looks like next week is going to be cooking! Which means now I am all excited thinking about all the spots that will be working on that swell and wondering if I can wangle some time off work next week...

* 2.08, we shout this around the house now

oh yes

2010-01-24T22:58:00.008Z

Just when winter was beginning to get me down, this weekend came along and reminded me how good it can be. Two days of surfing my favorite wave and having dinner with friends later and I've got that post-surf noodle arms satisfied feeling.

Today there was just me, one other guy, and two seals out surfing small peeling perfection, no leash, I didn't even notice the cold; you just don't get days like these in the summer.

Eternal sunshine

2010-01-18T15:18:00.005Z

Snow snow snow!

Seeing the beach under a dusting of snow was one of the most surreal and fantastic experiences I have had in a long time; there's something about snow that instantly brings back that childhood sense of wonder and joy in me.

"Old Guys Rule"

2010-01-12T21:51:00.003Z

My dad was 60 a few weeks ago, how is that possible?

New board

2010-01-05T23:50:00.005Z

I think we're going to be friends...

Sliding into 2010

2010-01-03T19:14:00.006Z

What a great start to the year - bellyboarding with Sally Parkin of Original Surfboards and friends at Porthcothan, followed by her amazing thai soup. Yum.

--------------------

Some resolutions for 2010:

Surf more
Take better photographs
Spend less money (much will-power required)
Get to know more people in the water
Eat breakfast every day

Resolutions broken so far = 2.

I love winter

2009-12-19T20:48:00.007Z

Even if I have got chilblains...probably time to get the mitts out.

Yeww!

2009-12-10T12:12:00.007Z

Ben Skinner at the Cribbar yesterday. Full article here.

Work to live, not live to work.

2009-12-09T13:58:00.008Z

Office jobs and surfing don't mix particularly well, but for the last four years I have been fortunate enough to work for a company that understands and values a good work-life balance. In the summer I start early and leave early, in the winter I start late and finish late, so I can surf during the week throughout the year. I've never had to pull a sickie when the surf's on - if I mention the surf is going to be good later in the week I get offered some time off, and when I come in late and salty with a wetsuit to dry in my office no-one complains.

All this came to an abrupt end ten days ago when the company went into administration, another victim of the recession. We're still trading for the moment whilst a buyer is sought, but nothing is guaranteed, and my bosses were told to leave immediately.

Whilst I should probably be worrying about my long-term job prospects - as head office staff I'm in a particularly vulnerable position - I've mainly been reflecting on how lucky I've been to work for an employer that truly understands about surfing and is willing to be flexible around it. Tim & Daren: a surfer couldn't ask for more accommodating manager than you two, I don't know how I'm going to get another job that will compare to this one.

So the last ten days have been incredibly busy, stressful, and emotional. Despite this I had a great weekend; I bought a new board at the St Merryn Surf Jumble on Saturday - not particularly sensible give the job situation (photos etc to follow!) - and had a nice little surf on it on Sunday at the spot pictured. For the moment my late starts & finishes are staying, and I've managed to wangle this Friday off too; now it's just a case of waiting to see what the new year brings.

Porthleven

2009-11-29T18:51:00.007Z

One of the best things about winter is the south coast starts working more often. Took this a few weeks ago, going to reprint and burn the sky in a bit more near the horizon I think.

Last look

2009-11-25T23:22:00.006Z

Making the best of it

2009-11-23T23:53:00.007Z

Yes, I surfed that.

Surfing in the UK sometimes feels like an uphill struggle. When the water's warm the surf is bad, and crowded; then just as the autumn swells arrive it starts to get cold and the days get shorter and shorter and makes weekend warriors out of most of us. So when you get the chance to get in you've got to make the best of it, whatever the conditions.

Last Tuesday I made the mistake of putting my wetsuit on at home instead of at the beach, only to get there and discover Fistral was completely blown out, and the bay was nearly flat. I had two choices - get in anyway, or arrive for work two hours early in a dry wetsuit; so I went for a paddle and kooked around for an hour. The waves were barely describable as surf, but I still spent the day with a satisfied salty smile on my face.

Style Evolution

2009-11-16T14:08:00.005Z

This video gives me goosebumps.

I don't really want to fill this blog up with stuff from youtube, but I couldn't resist sharing this one. More than just your usual compilation of gnarly wipeouts, this video is beautifully put together from surf films through from 1963 to 2005, starting with early big-wave riding on heavy longboards, and ending with modern tuberiding at spots like Shipsterns. I love that the music avoids the usual heavy electric guitars; and even though it shows some really evil wipeouts doesn't it just make you glad to be a surfer?

Stay stoked...

2009-11-15T18:03:00.013Z

(click image to see clearer)

A tragedy befell Mark's lovely Wegener alaia this afternoon.
He took it remarkably well considering, and apparently it will be 'even better' once it has been glued back together. Either that or he'll have a nice pair of skis plus a spare...

Happier times:

MINE THE STOKE

2009-11-15T17:41:00.002Z

Jazz the Glass, the world's first pirate surf film, premiered in the States last week and hopefully will be showing over here in early 2010 through the surfscreen. I can't wait to see it, preferably with a beer or three and lots of the usual surfscreen hooting & hollering.

OK Winter, you win.

2009-11-11T14:46:00.007Z

Low tide PT was firing this morning. It was one those perfect winter dawnies, sunny, cold, and offshore. I'm not ashamed to admit I did a little dance for joy in the carpark when I remembered I had an old pair of boots kicking around in the depths of my boot and wouldn't have to walk all the way back up the stony beach barefoot.

Winter, you win. It's time for the 5mm rubber.

Forecast w/c 9th November

2009-11-09T22:51:00.009Z

Got in before work this morning just in case it was the only chance we'll get this week. Hardly any wind and a nice misty sunrise.

It was only 4 degrees at the beach; I saw three people in boots, gloves and hoods - what do they do in February?! I'm still stringing out my summer suit and it was quite warm in the water, but my hands and feet had completely gone in the very short walk between the water and my car.

Summer rubber

2009-11-08T21:40:00.002Z

One from yesterday's darkroom session. I really should patch up the tail of that board...

Board Shorts

2009-11-06T20:20:00.002Z

Tomorrow night at the Stannary; expect lots of hooting & hollering!

Error!

2009-11-05T10:40:00.003Z

If only this were true...

Fall 'Roid Week 2009

2009-11-04T19:33:00.004Z

Join in here.

Sigh.

2009-11-03T22:34:00.004Z

It's hard to maintain enthusiasm when the forecast looks like this for the final few weeks of being able to wear a summer wetsuit. There might be a short break in the wind on Friday afternoon, but I'm having a wisdom tooth removed in the morning (oh joy) so will have to see how things pan out.

I don't mind the cold of winter so much, in fact I love clear frosty winter mornings, but I hate the endless drizzly onshores. Bring on the proper cold & glassy days!

Onshore stoke

2009-11-01T23:03:00.004Z

For one moment paddling out yesterday I didn't think I was going to make it. I almost hadn't gone in, the grey day and onshore surf wasn't exactly inviting. 8 feet at 12 seconds with a stiff onshore breeze coupled with two weeks of either being too busy to get in or the wrong tides in the limited pre-work daylight meant the whitewater seemed to go on forever. I don't know how many rolls later, but suddenly I was out there. Just being in the water clears your head and makes everything seem better. A righthander appeared and I was in the perfect position, nice steep takeoff and down the line, Chris hooting and shouting me to cut back, then a long noseride as it walled up on the inside. I was almost all the way back to the beach, but it's amazing how much energy a great wave gives you. I got paddling, a few rolls later and I was back in the lineup with a big smile on my face.

Drooling

2009-10-27T17:40:00.005Z

Now that we're back on GMT it really feels like winter; 5:45PM and it's already been dark for nearly an hour. So here are some sick waves to drool over from the first round of the WLT event that has just kicked off in the Maldives. How perfect are those waves - most definitely a case of wish I was there!

Sam Bleakley and Ben Skinner are both through to round 2, which starts at 8AM tomorrow. Ben's drawn Bonga Perkins and Sam has Eduardo Bage; I don't think there's such a thing as an easy heat in this contest...Duane DeSoto's out already. Looks like the Maldives are GMT+5 so that's 3AM here; Sam's in heat 2 and Ben's in heat 4 so doubt I'll be watching live but fingers crossed for both of them.

Bye bye BST

2009-10-24T19:20:00.004+01:00

Going to miss those after work sessions...

Grey days

2009-10-22T12:32:00.007+01:00

I'm feeling a bit down at the moment; we seem to have crossed the border between the end of summer and the beginning of winter. Last week was one of those rare classic autumn weeks, swell sunshine and light winds; this week the tides and wind have been against me so I haven't been able to get in before work and it's been colder and wet.

I felt cold for the first time in the water on Sunday, my 3/2 is getting pretty thin and holey and I just couldn't seem to stay warm no matter how much I paddled around, only a month ago I was still wearing my shorty. The prospect of getting my Snugg out and having to wear it for the next six months is not helping - I'm going to try and squeeze a few more weeks out of the 3/2, but the walk back to the car is starting to get unpleasant. It's funny how you forget about how much more effort surfing in the winter is during the summer, how much more stones and gravel hurt your feet when they're cold (why is that?), the struggle to pull off the last bit of your wetsuit when your fingers are stiff, not to mention the almost-overwhelming desire for a nice bacon sandwich and a cup of tea when you're huddled up against the wind out back.

With all this in mind I'm thinking about doing a photography project looking for the joy in winter surfing. Because despite what I've said above I do love surfing in winter. There's nothing like a good clean groundswell on a clear winter's day; yes it's cold, yes getting caught inside and taking the whole set on the head is enough to make you want to turn around and paddle in, but the waves are quiet, the winter scenery is every bit as beautiful as summer, and most of all every session is a small triumph over adversity. Surfing in summer is easy, surfing in winter takes dedication. Now how to capture that on film?

ish

2009-10-21T22:29:00.001+01:00

OK, so it was more like Big-ish Wednesday, and it was a big high tide at sunrise so I couldn't get in before or after work. Sigh.

I'm just a garbage man

2009-10-21T00:04:00.004+01:00

12.5' @ 14 seconds in the morning, just need to avoid those southerly winds.

Watch out Elliot...

2009-10-17T22:47:00.004+01:00

Andre: Elliot [Dudley]'s so good isn't he?
Norm: Yeah, really really good. I'd shag him.

A week of watching the sun rise

2009-10-16T20:24:00.004+01:00

I sometimes think surfing was almost more exciting when I didn't live here. My whole week revolved around the forecast for the weekend, deciding where to go, booking campsites, pleading with my boss to be let out early on Friday, spending six hours in the car on Friday night just in the hope that there might be something surfable. Having the surf permanently on your doorstep can lead to a certain level of complacency; I certainly don't obsess about surfing like I used to, it's just a normal part of my life.

But there's something special about getting up when it's dark and cold outside and driving down empty roads; spurred on by the knowledge that there are still three hours before work and a clean offshore swell waiting at the beach. Arriving at the beach and straining to see the waves in the pre-dawn light, watching the stars disappear as you pull your wetsuit on, seeing the sun rise over the sand dunes between sets, spending the day at work with a salty smile on your face. That's what surfing's about.

My dad, 1972

2009-10-16T19:57:00.005+01:00

Found this while looking for something else.

I'm possible

2009-10-14T12:45:00.004+01:00

"We are pleased to herewith announce a history making cooperation between Polaroid and The Impossible Project:As we have created quite some buzz about Analog Instant Photography over the past 12 months, the Polaroid licensee - The Summit Global Group - now can't resist any longer and announced at a press conference on October 13th in Hongkong that they will re-launch some of the most famous Polaroid Instant Cameras.Therefore they are commissioning The Impossible Project to develop and produce a limited edition of Polaroid branded Instant Films in the middle of 2010."

Not surf-related I know, but this is encouraging news. More cameras = more demand for film, which can only be a good thing. Read more at the impossible project.

the golden hour

2009-10-12T23:23:00.008+01:00

It was so peaceful in the water tonight, I wish I could have taken my Nikonos out with me. Seagulls were cruising out to sea just a few inches above the water; hardly any wind, and a beautiful suset.

The surf was cleaning up nicely too and getting towards shoulder/head high on the sets; might have to dust off the 9'1 for the rest of the week. Cold feet walking back though; I stayed out until I could barely see the waves approaching and it was only twenty five past seven when I got back to the car. Got to make the most of these last few weeks of BST.

Fingers crossed

2009-10-12T12:33:00.004+01:00

Looks like it's going to be a good week...board's in the car and the cameras are loaded.

Blue skies

2009-10-08T13:52:00.004+01:00

I woke up today to the sun streaming through the window, and not a cloud in the sky for the first time in a few weeks. The sun is rising over to one side now and there's a chill in the air that says winter isn't far away.

I think I've worn my shortie for the last time this year.

I did go, and it stopped raining.

2009-10-07T22:29:00.008+01:00

Sometimes you have to take a step back and appreciate what you've got.

Hello.

2009-10-07T16:56:00.001+01:00

It's about time I got myself a blog, so here I am.

I'm going to the beach after work tonight, raining and dark or not.